Buri: A Long-Standing Tradition

Posted on May 1, 2007 by Melinda Joe

Once upon a time, the word tachinomiyaJapanese for "standing bar". "Tachi" means "to stand", "nomiya" is Japanese for "pub". evoked images of grubby little watering holes bereft of seating and lined with wall-to-wall salarymen. A consequence of exorbitant rents as much as the desperate need for a few drinks after work, these tiny spaces offered solace in the form of cheap food and booze at the end of the day. In the tachinomiya of yesteryear, rumpled black suits and chain smoking were de rigeur. Not so in today's standing bars, which typically feature sleek interiors, an array of tempting tapas, and a clientele dominated by stylish young women.

The tachinomiya revival began a few years ago in the Ebisu area and spread like wildfire across the city. The notoriously shy Japanese are attracted to the standing bar's casual, relaxed atmosphere, where proximity encourages socializing with strangers. Affordable prices are an added boon; at most of these places, you can get a drink and a tasty snack for about 1000 yen. By this time last year, tachinomiya were cropping up in just about every space that could accommodate 20 upright people. But is the trend finally on the wane?

It appears not, if the crowds at Buri are anything to judge by. The standing bar remains as popular as ever, with good reason. The drinks menu offers something for everyone - a wide selection of premium one-cup sake, shochu, and cocktails, plus beer and a few wines. And the food is good enough to make you forget that you're at a bar. Artfully presented sashimiFresh, raw seafood sliced into bite-sized pieces and served with soy sauce, wasabi, and ginger. , delectable charcoal-grilled treats, and a number of seasonal specials keep folks coming back for more. With its friendly mix of Japanese and foreigners, Buri always feels comfortable, no matter how packed it gets.

The Buri group has been so successful that they've expanded once again, adding to the line-up of Buri, Buchi, and Bongout Noh. Nitakiya Kinsai in Naka Meguro, like ShibuyaOne of Tokyo's 23 wards and a center of business, fashion, and nightlife.'s Bongout Noh, represents the newer generation of standing bar and sit-down restaurant hybrid. Although newly opened, it already seems to be as popular as the Ebisu original. In the future, I may start heading down to Nitakiya Kinsai more often, but I won't stop frequenting Buri. The good food, good drinks, and good vibes have never let me down; it's a formula that stands the test of time.

Buri: Ebisu Nishi 1-14-1, 03-3496-7744

Nitakiya Kinsai: Meguro-ku, Aobadai 1-27-12, 03-5725-9025